Find a used tire shop you can actually trust.
We verify every shop before it's listed — sourced from open mapping data, checked against a 3-listing bar, and free for shops to be added. No pay-to-play, no dead listings.
$0
Cost to list a shop
August 2026
Data last updated
How we verify →
Listing methodology
371+
Shops listed sitewide
Four checks before a shop shows up on this site.
Sourced
Pulled from open mapping data (OpenStreetMap), not paid submissions.
Keyword-checked
Flagged for used/budget/discount inventory signals in the listing itself.
Cross-verified
Checked against a second pass before a city goes live.
3-listing bar
A city needs 3+ corroborated shops before it gets a full page — otherwise it’s marked honestly as pending.
Verified local shop vs. the alternatives
Whether you're comparing a verified shop against a full-price new set, or against a listing you found on a classifieds site, the difference usually comes down to whether you can inspect the tire before you pay for it.
✓ Local shop, used tires
- ✓Inspected by the shop before sale — tread depth, DOT date, sidewall condition
- ✓$140–$320 for a set of 4, mounted and balanced
- ✓You can see and reject the exact tire before it goes on your car
- ✓Best for older vehicles, budget constraints, or matching an existing set
- ✓Local return/exchange window at most independent shops (ask before buying)
✕ Full-price new, or unverified listing
- ✕No inspection — condition is whatever the listing photo shows, or less
- ✕Full retail new-tire pricing runs $590–$900 for the same set
- ✕You find out the tire's real condition after it's already mounted
- ✕Overkill for an older vehicle that isn't worth a full new set
- ✕No recourse once you've paid a stranger and driven away
Every listing looks like this — a real shop, not a stock photo.
Used tires make sense when
You're replacing one damaged tire on an otherwise healthy set, matching tread on an AWD vehicle, running a car whose value doesn't justify $700 of new rubber, buying winter tires that only see a few months a year, or you simply need to be back on the road today for the least money that's still safe. A premium-brand used tire at 6/32"+ from a shop that let you inspect it is a genuinely good product — not a compromise you should feel uneasy about.
Buy new instead when
The vehicle is new or under warranty, it's the family car you want maximum wet-braking margin on, you rack up long highway miles, or your size is rare enough that the used options are all old or mismatched. In those cases the manufacturer warranty and full tread are worth the premium — and our cost comparison shows exactly where that line sits in dollars.
Three steps to your next set of tires.
Tell us your city
We show you what’s verified nearby — or point you to online options if we’re not there yet.
Compare local shops
Real names, addresses, and phone numbers, sourced from open mapping data and cross-checked before they go live.
Get free quotes
Request quotes and up to 3 shops reach out — no spam, and it costs a shop nothing to be listed.
What used tires cost in the US
National averages for tires purchased from an independent shop — your local market may run above or below these.
Price tracks remaining tread depth first, brand second, size scarcity third. Paying the high end of a range for 8/32”+ of tread is usually the smart move — you’re buying most of the tire’s life.
Economy
Compact & sedan sizes, e.g. 175/70R14, 195/65R15
$20–$45
per tire
Standard
Mid-size sedan & crossover, e.g. 205/55R16, 225/65R17
$30–$65
per tire
Truck / SUV
17" and up, e.g. 265/70R17, 275/55R20
$45–$95
per tire
Mounting and balancing: $0–$20 per tire (often included).
Four checks before you pay for any used tire.
Every check below happens hands-on, at the shop, before mounting — and any reputable shop will hand you the tire to do them. If a shop won't, that's your answer about the shop.
Tread
6/32" or better is a good buy; 4/32" is the wet-weather floor. Bring a quarter if nothing else.
Date code
Last 4 digits of the DOT number = week and year made. Older than 6 years is a no, whatever the tread looks like.
Sidewall
Run a hand around both sides. Any bulge is an automatic reject; so are cracks deeper than surface crazing.
Repairs
One proper plug-patch in the central tread is fine at a discount. Anything near the shoulder or sidewall is not.
Compare local pickup to buying online.
We're still building out verified listings in most cities. In the meantime, here's how local shops compare to ordering from an online retailer.
Contains affiliate links — how we make money.
The guides, if you want the long answers.
Complete Buying Guide
Size, shops, inspection, and negotiation — the full checklist, start to finish.
How to Check Tread Depth
The quarter test, gauge readings, and what wear patterns reveal about a tire’s past.
Are Used Tires Safe?
The four checks that separate a sound used tire from a gamble.
Used vs New: Cost Comparison
Real numbers on what a set costs each way, and when used wins.
Best Used Tire Brands
Which brands hold up on the second-hand market — and which to skip.
The Big FAQ
68 straight answers across 17 topics, from DOT codes to warranties.
Quick answers
01How long do used tires last?+
It depends entirely on remaining tread depth, not age alone. A used tire with 8/32" or more of tread can deliver 20,000–30,000 miles of use. Anything under 4/32" should be considered near the end of its life regardless of price.
02How long does mounting and balancing take?+
Most shops mount and balance a set of 4 in 30–60 minutes. Ask if you need to wait or can drop off — many shops offer same-day service without an appointment for used tire purchases.
03Do shops inspect used tires before selling them?+
Reputable ones do — tread depth, DOT date code, and a visual sidewall check are standard practice. If a shop won't show you the tire before it's mounted, that's a reason to go elsewhere, not a normal used-tire transaction.
04What's the #1 hidden problem with used tires?+
Age, not appearance. Rubber degrades internally over time regardless of how much tread is left or how good the tire looks. Check the DOT date code on the sidewall — avoid any tire manufactured more than 6 years ago, even if the tread looks new.
05Will used tires look mismatched on my car?+
Only if you let them. Ask the shop to match brand and tread pattern across at least the front pair or rear pair — mismatched tread depth or compound between paired tires can affect handling and is worth avoiding, not just a cosmetic issue.
06What should I bring or know before buying?+
Your exact tire size (printed on your current tire's sidewall, e.g. 225/65R17) and how many tires you need. If you're replacing fewer than 4, bring your vehicle or a photo of the remaining tires so the shop can match tread pattern and wear level.
Ready to find your next set of tires?
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